Back in 1986, friends and former D.H. Holmes coworkers Linda Ward Dalton and Carla Jumonville took a leap of faith, betting on themselves and their fashion acumen to launch an evening gown and special occasion wear brand of their own. Through the 2000s, their brand, San Carlin, could be seen in Christmas windows at Henri Bendel and Saks Fifth Avenue, on celebrities like Aretha Franklin and Joan Collins, and on Baton Rougeans alike. Designed in the Capital City in collaboration with lead designer and LSU alum Gonzalo Calderón Ortiz, the brand remained true to its hometown roots, despite being sold at major department stores across the country, as well as in Europe.

“When Tracey with LASM approached me for a collaboration, she said she wanted the exhibition to be the history of Louisiana told through textiles,” LSU Textile & Costume Museum director Dr. Michael Mamp recalls. “I immediately said, ‘It has to be San Carlin.’”

Mamp is a long-time fan of Dalton, Jumonville and San Carlin. Both women are staunch supporters of the efforts of the LSU Textile & Costume Museum. Following an exhibition spotlighting the brand in 2023, the pair donated around 40 pieces from their own collections, many of them being original samples.

“The collection has grown, and we now have around 100 gowns,” Mamp says, noting that pieces have been donated from many individuals and San Carlin supporters from throughout the community. The LASM exhibition, which opens to the public on August 1 and will remain on view through January 4, 2027, will include a sampling of this immense collection, with approximately 30 gowns on display, in addition to original brand photography by Fred Frey.

“San Carlin represents far more than beautiful evening gowns,” Barhorst says. “These designs reflect the artistry, technical skill and entrepreneurial vision that helped shape Louisiana’s cultural heritage. Fashion exists at the intersection of art, science and innovation, making this exhibition an opportunity to recognize the many ways women have contributed to STEAM through design, textiles, craftsmanship and creative problem solving. One of my hopes is that visitors, especially young women, leave inspired by the creativity and ingenuity behind these garments.”

From wedding gowns to a custom design for an honoree of the 1986 Best Dressed Ball, Mamp says that the pieces on display at LASM tell deeper stories, memorializing some of the most important moments in the wearers’ lives and showcasing the art and sentimentality that underlie fashion in general. The chosen gowns present a full retrospective of the brand for viewers and trace trends, style, and Dalton and Jumonville’s unique vision as they evolved throughout the life of San Carlin.

“I think the legacy of San Carlin is one of enduring glamour,” Mamp says. “Linda and Carla are beautiful inside and out, and it is such an honor to share this exhibition with the public.”

“Working with Dr. Michael Mamp, Morgan Strzynski and Sujun Liu has been one of the most rewarding parts of this project for our LASM curatorial team,” Barhorst adds. “Their expertise, enthusiasm and commitment to telling San Carlin’s story made this a true collaboration, and I am grateful for the opportunity to help ensure this remarkable legacy continues to inspire future generations.”