Above board

Troy Deano, chef de cuisine of 18 Steak Restaurant at the new L’Auberge Casino and Hotel, comes by his love of charcuterie honestly. He worked for Chef John Besh for seven years, including a stint at one of Besh’s Alsatian brasseries, Lüke San Antonio, where sausages, terrines, pickles and their kin are front and center. For 18 Steak, Deano created a charcuterie board featuring 18 distinctive nibbles, including house-made turkey tasso, grilled chicken liver pâté that starts over an all-wood fire, handcrafted hog’s head cheese, pickled fennel and beet greens, grilled flatbread, mustard from scratch, and more. The dish is served on an elevated wooden plank, and its elements gently pull the palate in one direction, then another. “With a plate like this, you want to have a good mix of flavors—sweet, spicy, bitter and salt,” says Deano. “It’s all about contrasts.”

L’Auberge Casino and Hotel
777 L’Auberge Avenue
Sunday through Wednesday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Thursday through Saturday, 5 p.m. to 11 p.m.
(866) 261-7777